Italy: Last Day
Jeff and Sharon with Orvieto in the Background
The last day we drove back to Rome. It is hard to believe it was two weeks ago that we arrived. We took one last detour and stopped at Orvieto again to really take in all the sights of this wonderful city. There are many Etruscan ruins nearby and the museum is filled with the remnants of that ancient civilization.
The Italian pottery called Majolica, is displayed in many of the shops for the tourists. All hand made and hand painted, the patterns are unique to the area and have a history as old as the relics in the museums. We bought a few pieces to bring back with us to remember our trip.
As we said our goodbyes to Italy, the suns reflection off the gold Duomo was a dramatic contrast to the blue sky and white clouds. Ciao.
Italy: The Final Days
Fortezza Pienza at Montalcino
The trip was coming to an end and there were only a few days left. We set out for another hill fortress called Montalcino, with its Fortezza Pienza, the castle fortress that is nearly intact (see top photo). It is a sleepy town with charm and history.
Next was the Renaissance town of Pienza, often described as the "ideal city." Despite our best efforts to find a 10th century church called Pieve di Corsignano we failed until after we gave up. Leaving the town we stumbled upon it. With its circular bell tower and carved doors in the early evening light it made an eerie sight.
The next day we were off to San Gimignano to the northwest. Here the towers that once dotted many Tuscan towns still stand. Originally there were over 70 towers in the city but today only 14 have survived. Though lovely, the most interesting sight in San Gimignano is the frescoes of the Duomo, La Collegiata , in the main square. From the outside it is a very uninteresting church but the walls inside are a quilt of remarkable paintings. The graphic, horrific view of hell must have scared the local population to their souls.
Only one day left. OH NO!!!!
Florence: Birth of the Renaissance
Piazza della Signoria
We had decided earlier in the week that we would make a day trip to Florence and we got up in time to see a beautiful sunrise. We arrived later than anticipated so we raced on foot to the Uffizi Gallery. It is a world famous museum with an abundance of recognizable works. The Birth of Venus is just one of the gallery's many jewels. I took the picture of the Ponte Vecchio (the famous bridge over the Arno River) from the second floor overlook.
After leaving the Uffizi, we took in the sights of the Piazza della Signoria and the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, or Duomo of Florence. The adjacent bell tower (pictured above) and baptistery are also in the same striped facade of green, pink and white. It all gives the impression of an over the top wedding cake with way too much icing. The other odd thing is the interior of the Duomo holds nothing of interest except for the fresco that adorns the dome. It shows the last judgment with a 3o foot tall devil eating people with all three heads.
We did climb to the top of the dome, which was almost as harrowing as the tower in Siena. The best part was climbing the stairs that are in between the outer wall and the frescoes of the dome. It circles around and up the dome till reaching the center tower then there is a steep staircase to the very top. Another spectacular view.
Our next stop was at the Accademia Gallery. The genius that is Michelangelo shows in the incomplete statues on either side of the gallery as you approach the David. Each appears to be straining, to free itself from the marble. These figures give a wonderful insight into Michelangelo's process. At the far end is David, his back set too close to a niche so you can't step back and get a good view from all sides. Despite the inadequate space that is provided for this masterpiece, he stands with an overwhelming calm. The figure is relaxed in its fame and delivers.
We walked over the Arno River through the Ponte Vecchio, saw chalk drawings on the street, Jeff bought a briefcase and after a wonderful dinner, left Florence tired but happy that we had made the drive.
A Quiet Day
The next day we headed to Montepulciano, a beautiful hilltop town that is surrounded by wineries. Mixed among the winding streets were many places for wine tasting. A relaxing and quiet day.
A few days ago my blog was tagged by my friend and talented artist, Marian Fortunati. Having never been tagged before, I was unsure what this meant. Would my computer crash, was my blog being frozen, did I need to shut down my system? No, Marian assured me. I only needed to include her link in my blog, write 5 to 7 unusual things about myself, and then pass on the tag to five other bloggers. So here goes.
Those unusual things about myself.
1) I am clumsy. Today I was talking to another artist friend and she told me she was very embarrassed because she had recently broken her toe. I am a klutz and have broken varies toes no less than four times, probably more. Hard to believe I wanted to be a ballet dancer when I was a kid. Loved to be on point. Maybe that is why I have feet like a duck, very wide. (Is that three unusual things about me???)
2) I was a tomboy as a kid. I could run faster, climb higher, and spit farther then any of the boys I played with. But I was a real loner and spent hours by myself in the farmland and by the stream near my town in PA. (Not something kids are encouraged to do today.)
3) I met my third and final husband on the Internet. For me it was love at first sight. Never happened like that before. (Today, one in seven marriages result from meetings on the Internet, so perhaps not so unusual.)
4) I firmly believe that just because you think they're all out to get you doesn't mean they're not. (Just a little paranoid.)
5) I hate the rain. I can't remember when I learned to swim, and am an experienced scuba diver, but when it comes to rain I am like a cat. Get me out of it.
Now for the five bloggers I am tagging. I have listed artists whom I admire and whose blogs I follow, so take a look at these blogs too.
Keiko Tanabe
Marsha Robinett
Mary Aslin
Michael McGuire
Kimberly Zamlich
Siena: Medieval Jewel
First View of Torre del Mangia
Morning Fog in Siena
Piazza del Campo
From the Dizzying Heights
Is that terror in my eyes? I'm scared atop the Tower
Siena Cathedral: Duomo
Inlaid Floor with She wolf: Symbol of Siena and It's Powerful Houses
Striped Interior
I am not a big fan of Medieval art so I was not prepared to like Siena. I couldn't have been more wrong. You can catch a short glimpse of its beauty in the opening scenes of the new James Bond movie Quantum of Solace.
Siena is a rare jewel even among the many that are in Italy. During the middle ages the city was built at a time when it's power rivaled Florence. Bitter enemies, the two cities tried to outdo each other with a bigger cathedral, higher tower and larger piazza. When Siena's power wained Florence continued to grow, often replacing older structures with new, while Siena quietly stayed the same, retaining it's Medieval purity. As I entered the Piazza del Campo I could see the parade of ancient lords entering the buildings of government and power. One other thing, Siena did not have easy access to marble thus the intricate brick work of the piazza and the over the top painted interiors.
We decided to take the 400 plus stairs to the top of the Torre del Mangia, a vertical tower of dizzying height. If you know me, you know I am not good with heights but up, up I walked. There is a first larger level where I caught my breath but I decided to try and make it up to the very top. The steps were stepper and there was only plexiglas dividing me from a horrible drop. Terror is the only way to describe the last few flights to the top but I made it. I needed to calm down for about 20 minutes up there. The view was spectacular and I descended with a sense of accomplishment.
The Duomo, Siena's Cathedral, is amazing inside and out. The black and white alternating stone form the stripes that dominate the church. The floor of the cathedral is a fabulous maze of inlaid scenes with the sublime next to the damned. Saints, skull and cross bones, hundreds of busts lining the top of the arches. Its grandeur is fantastic.
After the last two days, I can't imagine anything being able to top Siena and Pitigliano but more surprises where ahead.
Tuscany
Orvieto Cathedral
The Best View in the World
Leaving Orvieto
Herd of Sheep Crossing the Road at Dusk
Room with a View
Seeing Pitigliano for the First Time
Enchanting Streets of Pitigliano
The Fortress Walls of Pitigliano
Bell Tower in Sovana
Sovana
Sunset on Pitigliano
Leaving Rome, we took a small diversion and stopped at Orvieto where the cathedral shoots skyward above the city. It was a quick stop and we didn't have time to see everything but we did find the Best View Ever from a nearby park that overlooks a patchwork of orchards and vineyards with a castle smack in the middle. It was such a perfect scene I felt I was in the movie The Truman Show and it had been painted.
Approaching the town near our villa, we ran into a herd of sheep being sent home for the night. As they walked across the road, I could feel the mood of Tuscany. Slow, earthy and relaxed. The next morning when we got up I opened the shutters and patio doors. We had a room with a view.
I had not planned the days excursions in Tuscany, but the night before I found a little town from the guide book that sounded wonderful. Sometimes it is nice to be surprised and Pitigliano was an amazing surprise.
The city is built on high cliffs on three sides with a narrow entrance. The first view of the town took my breath away as it seems to grow out of the rock. We were not disappointed within its walls. The streets were charming and every step revealed another enchanting view of narrow walkways and stairs.
We drove to a nearby small village, Sovana, to see its less imposing fort and town square. Along the road we found one of many caves that the Etruscans carved called Via Cava. They may have been roads that are 30 feet deep but no one really knows why the Etruscans carved these ancient deep pathways. As we retraced our route we watched the sun set on Pitigliano. WOW!
Rome Part 4: The Final Chapter
Apollo and Daphne
Piazza del Popolo
The She Wolf of Rome
Night Falls on the Musei Capitolini
Ruins Near the Catacombs
Along the Appian Way
Sharon and Beverly Say Goodbye to Rome
We only have a few more days in Rome and still so much to see.
The Galleria Borghese, which features many sculptures by Bernini, was recommended to us by our friends Bill and Joy. Many thanks, it was wonderful. My favorite piece by Bernini is Apollo and Daphne but his David is very impressive. His work has a movement which seems to defy the stone it is carved from. After the museum tour we walked through the surrounding park toward Piazza del Popolo and came across a lovely pond, columned buildings, fountains, and a Sienna inspired race track.
Our next stop was the Musei Capitolini were we spent the rest of the afternoon and part of the evening seeing sculptures, including the famous She wolf of Rome. As the sun set, I captured a lovely scene of the Michelangelo designed civic center from the second floor of the museum.
The next day we took to the public transportation system and headed to the Catacombs and Appian Way. Walking along this ancient thoroughfare, I felt a sense of belonging that the Italians must feel for there heritage. The roots they have are so deep and strong. It is an enviable thought, one we young bloods in the US have no reference of comparison. What would it be like to feel so attached to a place, through generations, back to the very beginning of recorded history?
The catacombs are a spooky place, filled with a musty smell of earth and human remains. The nearby ruins have room to soak in the landscape and are impressive for that space. Time seems to stand still here.
In the morning, we got our rental car and sadly said our goodbyes to Rome but were filled with anticipation for our upcoming time in Tuscany.
Rome Part 3
Castel Sant' Angelo
The View of St Peters from Atop the Castel
The Pantheon
We started out the day walking from our hotel across the Tiber to Castel Sant'Angelo, built in 120 AD as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian. The labyrinth of ramps, corridors, and defensive passages finally open to a courtyard and further up to a roof top view of the city of Rome. We had skipped the trek to the top of St Peters the day before because of the rain so I was pleased when we emerged to find a spectacular view with lots of sun. Looking left to the Forum and Colosseum, down at the Ponte Sant'Angelo Bridge and across to the right at St Peter Basilica makes it the best view in Rome.
From the Castel we walked through the back streets of the city. The lovely doors and narrow side streets were filled with scenes I wanted to paint.
Turning a corner we came upon the back side of the Pantheon. WOW! This is the one building that really gives you the grandeur that was ancient Rome. The huge columned porch is only overshadowed by walking through the original bronze doors. The interior is a cylinder with a lovely dome that rises up with ever smaller squares. The only light comes from the circular hole in the top of the dome. It is spectacular.
The day was coming to an end but we saw in our guide book that the Santa Maria sopra Minerva Cathedral was just around the corner so we decided to take a look. In Rome, it is a rare Gothic church with a little known Michelangelo work, Redeemer with Cross pictured above. Michelangelo sculpted the torso but an apprentice did the face, hands and feet. Though he wasn't happy with the finished piece, the patrons were and it survives in this seldom visited church.
After seeing so much, I told my fellow travelers I had seen too much beauty and my eyes couldn't take any more. After all, tomorrow is another day.
Rome Part 2
The Forum
The Roman Forum and the Colosseum were our first stops in Rome. Taking the subway we were prepared to be accosted by gypsies at every turn but were lucky to be there in the off season and all the gypsies were on vacation. Our entire trip was gypsy free.
Exiting the subway at the Colosseum, we walked to the entrance of the Forum but despite everyones assurance that we could find a guide there, they to were absent. We opted for an audio guide which proved to be disappointing and difficult to figure out what the heck they were talking about. I enjoyed the ruins and loved walking through history but when we arrived at the Colosseum we decided to pay for a tour guide and had a much more interesting time. Did you know that the Colosseums arches are all pitted with holes because it was looted for its metals that were inside?
Learning from our Forum mistake, the next day we hired a tour guide to go through the Vatican, which includes the Sistine Chapel. The obscene opulence and over the top abundance throughout the Vatican Museums should be an embarrassment for a religious organization who's spiritual founder condemned the accumulation of wealth, but nobody else seemed to see the hypocrisy. Our tour guide had many interesting theological opinions and did refer to the churches plunder to acquire many of its treasures.
But all was forgiven when I entered the Sistine Chapel. Standing under the awe inspiring site is truly humbling. I was in the presents of greatness. I am forever grateful that the Pope commissioned this masterpiece. Thankfully, no talking or photos are allowed. I was forced to leave only when my neck couldn't take it any more.
Exiting, we walked out in front of St Peters Basilica. Another masterpiece, this time in architecture, the piazza and church open a vast space for people and worshipers. Inside St Peters there is too much to see, from Michelangelo's Pieta to his dome, statues, shrines, the alter, I can't list them all. We returned to our hotel happy and exhausted after seeing so much.
Rome: The Eternal City
Looking Out the Window at the Art Fair
We arrived in Rome early after taking the overnight flight to Italy. The hotel we stayed at was near the Spanish Steps, a stylish area with upscale shops, restaurants, and people, lots of people. The cab inched its way through the crowded piazza to a small side street where an art fair was going on right outside the door of our hotel. (See top photo taken from the Hotel Forti window on the second floor.) The building housed another hotel on the 5th floor and was built in 1600. The location was ideal and the staff very helpful and friendly.
We had time to walk around before dark and took advantage of the late afternoon light to walk some of the small streets and soak in the beauty of the area. (Second photo looking back at the Spanish Steps)
Continuing our walk, we were lucky enough to stumble onto a plaza where there was a very large fountain. Of course it was the Trevi Fountain, immortalized by "Three Coins in the Fountain." Jeff and I are standing in front of this beautiful landmark in photo three.
Just so you know, I took as many as 800 photos but I promise not to include all of them in my future blogs about my trip of a lifetime to Italy. After two weeks there all I can say is bella Roma e Tuscana.
